Brioni’s latest warm weather collection saw the storied Italian tailoring house inject a certain painterliness into its usual medley of sharp silhouettes via an array of patterned ensembles. Evident on a number of long, flowing parkas, suits and silk shirts, the geometric prints had a certain delicate quality to them, matching the fineness of the materials themselves and providing a considered counterweight to the gravitas of Italian tailoring — a point driven home by the pairing of leather sandals with every look. However, this was not to say that tradition was neglected — instead, it was slightly updated via subtle details such as the novel use of belting atop suits, for a more functional aesthetic rooted in the garb of vintage motorists. Now in its 71st year, Brioni’s creative director Brendan Mullane seems set to bring the label into new waters, all the while keeping a lifeline to its bread and butter of fine tailoring.
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